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Selenge!

Oyuntugs, one of our English teachers had promised me one of the weekends of May to bring the country to their parents. And the promise it has already used this weekend. It started the whole thing a bit chaotic: Ida and I are now on Friday on the black market in Old Darkhan about shoes. On the way home I write Tugsuu whether as now planned, on Saturday morning would start driving, and if so, at what time. She writes me back, if we can be at a quarter past five at the station. I'm confused a bit, if she means Friday night or Saturday morning, she explained to me that she wanted to halb Sechs den Zug in den Norden nehmen. Bloederweise ist es bereits zehn vor fuenf und Ida und ich entscheiden uns, dass das alles ein bischen zu kurzfristig ist.

Tugsuu meint anschliessend, wenn wir nicht mitkommen wuerden, ginge sie auch nicht, sie habe schliesslich genug zu tun in Darchan und sie wuerde sich nochmals melden. Das tut sie dann auch und wir nehmen den Nachtzug um 3 Uhr... Die Zeit davor ueberbruecken wir in Idas Wohnung und ploetzlich ist die Wohnung voll: Nadine, Steven, Ida, ich und einige mongolische Freunde, von denen ich in diesem Blog noch nicht geschrieben habe. Das sind Jizo, der Japanischlehrer unserer Schule, "Bee" eine Mongolin, welche in Hawaii studiert, momentan aber hier ihre Ferien verbringt, ein Freund von Bee und Ogni Finally, a neighbor of Steve and Ida.

Jizo is nice enough to play taxi for Ida and me. At the station in Darkhan, we buy our "Bilet" and wait for the train. The waiting room is pretty full and we are once again witnessing a brawl. That comes here more often before (even in the classroom), but runs from mostly fair. No one says anything back, but all rigid. After about 20 minutes, there are two opponents still not sorry over and over again each loszugehen. Fortunately, both have quite a bit of alcohol inside them, and thus no longer the power to hurt each other seriously. I'm definitely too tired to help me continue to care for it. When the train comes, we seek our Compartment and put us back to finally get some sleep. The train cars are very simple, but imaginatively made, so that all seats will be also converted to sleeping bunks. So we sleep half hours and leave at 5 km from the Russian border in Suchbaatar, the capital of Selenge aimag, the train. ("We" are Tugsuu, her son Ariunboldt "Ariunka, Ida and me.) Suchbaatar already waiting at the station in dozens of taxis, to bring all people arriving in several small villages. From Tugsuus home village just a cab is there, but waiting for the taxi driver and organized until all those waiting have a driving opportunity.
The taxis here are more private cars, mostly in almost Driving ability Zustand. Unser Taxi ist wirklich das schlimmste Auto, in welchem ich bis jetzt mitgefahren bin, den Geraeuschen nach zu urteilen ist es aber auch kein Auto, sondern ein Traktor. Auf dem Ruecksitz sitzen fuenf Erwachsene und auf dem Vordersitz eine Oma mit Grosskind. So fahren wir nochmals eineinhalb Stunden bis in Tugsuus Heimatdorf. Auch wenn das Auto in mir die Vision hervorruft, es koennte jeden Moment den Geist aufgeben, geniesse ich die Fahrt in vollen Zuegen. Die Gegend durch die wir fahren gehoert zu den schoensten, welche ich bis jetzt in der Mongolei bereist habe. Es gibt hier viele Baeume und genausoviel Wasser. Der Aimag ist der wasserreichste der Mongolei, die zwei groessten Fluesse, die Selenge und der Orchon, fliessen hier zusammen und muenden in Russland in Lake Baikal. Because it has so far been hardly precipitation, flowing water, not everywhere, where in summer the water is flowing. Otherwise the country is still very sparse - the trees are still bare and the first flowers are only emerging now. This means that summer is very short, but more must be better. On the way we see many, many needle, and a type of duck or goose, "fear" called.

Tugsuus Arrived in town, the taxi driver takes us to the house of her parents. Tugsuus ancestors came decades ago from Inner Mongolia to Mongolia and some ancestors were Japanese and Chinese. She grew up with seven siblings - she herself is the fifth child. They told us that their parents decided during the pregnancy to give her child to a childless uncle, as in Mongolia and is still off to make. The prospective adoptive parents come to visit and wait for Oyuntugs birth, but have to back to their village because they are both teachers. A day after her departure she is born ... come back as the uncle and his wife a little later to take Tugsuu, says the father did not speak because there is not dare to say "no". He declared, his five children to be like the fingers of one hand - as he could now remove your finger from it? Sun Tugsuu remain with their biological parents and three younger siblings follow :-)
The uncle and aunt, however, not remained childless. You adopt a child from another family and take the death of his wife and the other children to live with him. This everything sounds pretty adventurous, but shows very well how families work here and stick together. Presumably this was different in Switzerland, not a few decades ago.

Tugsuus parents received us very cordially - as the first but once we sleep until noon. The house has two floors. In the lower chamber, a furnace and the "kitchen" is. In the other half of the room is a bed, table, various Cupboard and the stairs to the second floor is located there. Upstairs is the double bed and two beds for grandparents visit. There is electricity but no running water. The house itself is built, most Mongolians can on the land so reaprieren about everything yourself, or construct, in case there are relatives and neighbors to help. The water pick Tugsuus parents in the grounds of her son, which has a fountain with an electric pump. The toilet is something from the house on the edge of the fenced property and is (a rarity) equipped with toilet paper. The toilets here are all the same: a Holzhaeuschen over an approximately 2-2.5 meters deep pit. Depending on the luxury with something newer or older, unstable Wooden planks provided that retain even inexperienced Europeans from a fall in the pit. In Khujirt we had such a lousy execution this house that the children of the family did not dare to use it. (Yes, I was afraid in the night somehow into the pit).
the house has a basement to a quarter, the cellar is made up for several meters away and is used during the long winter you to stash all vegetables. Tugsuus parents have their vegetable growers but meantime there is reduced dramatically because they no longer have enough energy for a large garden. They are now 66 years old, which can be considered in Mongolia to be quite old.

Shortly before noon we are on, then, drink milk tea and eat Guetsli. Ida and I decide to take a walk, while Tugsuu boil. So we are making a tour through part of the village and then walk across the meadow to a prominent hill with a owoo. As we are a half hour later, and Ariunka Tugsuu are already on a bike in search of us. Luckily for us, but they are short back and Ida and I eat Tugsuus typical Mongolian meal of dried beef. It tells us that there are "hot meat" and "cold meat". Sheep meat is in the cold season particularly well, more beef summer. The beef is in sub-zero temperatures an einem schattigen, vor Wind geschuetzten Ort ueber den gesamten Winter getrocknet und ungefaehr ab Mai gegessen. Es wird etxtrem fein geschnitten und gekocht. Traditionellerweise wird hier das Essen alles in einem Topf gekocht. Tugsuus Eltern haben aber beispielsweise auch einen Reiskocher, so dass wir zu unseren Eintoepfen und Suppen auch Reis oder Teigwaren als Beilage haben. Am Mittag hat Tugsuu jeweils auf einer elektrischen Kochplatte gekocht, am Abend jeweils auf dem Feuer. Um das Haus warm oder kalt zu halten, wird auch der Kamin im Winter und Sommer unterschiedlich durch das Haus gefuehrt: Im Sommer direkt durch die Seitenwand nach drauusen, im Winter durch das gesamte Haus nach oben.



An diesem Abend gehe ich direkt nach dem Abendessen um acht Uhr To sleep the night before because I slept too little habe.Alle other peeling garlic, which we want to plant on Sunday.
On the lower picture is Ariunka and grandfather when Knoblauchschaelen seen. For those who are over the youthful appearance of the grandfather wonders: Mongolians have very different faces and very different age. Ariunka is 13, Tugsuu until 31st ..